Integration of Counter Shaft Shedding Mechanism into Indigenous Two-Heddle Loom: A Novel Approach
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.35738/ftr.v5.2024.03Keywords:
Hybrid loom, shedding mechanism, indigenous weaving, textile innovation, rural empowermentAbstract
Purpose: The study aims to enhance weaving efficiency by integrating the shedding mechanism from a countershaft loom into the traditional two-heddle loom. This approach seeks to maintain simplicity and affordability while improving functionality.
Methodology/Design: A mixed-methods approach was employed. The research involved direct observation of traditional weaving practices to identify operational challenges. Interviews with local weavers and textile experts ensured cultural relevance in the design process. Studio experiments were conducted to develop and test three conceptual designs: Modular Integration, Hybrid Frame Integration, and Adaptable Shedding Mechanism. Each design was evaluated based on functionality, compatibility with existing looms, and impact on weaving efficiency.
Findings: The Modular Integration approach emerged as the most viable solution in the study's final analysis. While the Hybrid Frame Integration initially demonstrated notable improvements in weaving efficiency and design complexity, Modular Integration ultimately proved more adaptable and compatible with the structural and cultural context of traditional two-heddle looms. Modular Integration enabled the production of complex weave patterns, enhanced fabric quality, and increased productivity while preserving the loom's affordability and simplicity.
Practical and Social Implications: The study’s outcomes offer practical solutions for rural weavers by expanding their capabilities to meet contemporary market demands. This innovation fosters economic empowerment, opens access to wider markets, and supports the preservation of traditional weaving heritage. Additionally, the modular design promotes sustainable weaving practices through the use of locally sourced, eco-friendly materials.
Originality: This study provides a novel framework for integrating advanced weaving mechanisms into traditional looms. By prioritizing cultural relevance and simplicity, the Modular Integration approach ensures that traditional weavers can adopt modern techniques without compromising heritage. The study contributes to bridging the gap between traditional craftsmanship and contemporary demands, offering a sustainable pathway to enhanced weaving efficiency and market competitiveness.
References
• Ahiabor, R., Awuyah, I. R., & Nyante, B. (2018). Design and construction of a broadloom capable of weaving compound weaves. Arts and Design Studies. Vol 63, pp. 1-13
• Bakırlıoğlu, Y., & Kohtala, C. (2019). Framing open design through theoretical concepts and practical applications: A systematic literature review. Human–Computer Interaction, 34(5-6), 389-432. https://doi.org/10.1080/07370024.2019.1574225 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1080/07370024.2019.1574225
• Bortamuly, A.B. and Goswami, K. (2015) Determinants of the adoption of modern technology in the handloom industry in Assam, Technological Forecasting and Social Change, 90(Part B), pp. 400–409. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.techfore.2014.04.018 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.techfore.2014.04.018
• Chandrasegaran, S. K., Ramani, K., Sriram, R. D., Horváth, I., Bernard, A., Harik, R. F., & Gao, W. (2013). The evolution, challenges, and future of knowledge representation in product design systems. Computer-aided design, 45(2), 204-228. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cad.2012.08.006 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cad.2012.08.006
• Clifford Collard, N. J. (2017). Crafting livelihoods, negotiating challenges and realising opportunities: an ethnography of life, learning and work amongst young Ghanaian weavers (Doctoral dissertation, SOAS University of London
• Clifford, R. (2018). Learning to weave for the luxury Indian and global fashion industries: The Handloom School, Maheshwar. Clothing Cultures, 5(1), 111-130. https://doi.org/10.1386/cc.5.1.111_1 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1386/cc.5.1.111_1
• Gray, C. and Malins, J. (2004). Visualizing Research: A Guide to the Research Process in Art and Design, London: Routledge, Taylor and Francis Group. https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315547923 DOI: https://doi.org/10.4324/9781315547923
• Hazarika, B., Bezbaruah, M. P., & Goswami, K. (2016). Adoption of modern weaving technology in the handloom micro-enterprises in Assam: A Double Hurdle approach. Technological Forecasting and Social Change, 102, 344-356, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.techfore.2015.08.009 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.techfore.2015.08.009
• Kamiya, R., Cheeseman, B. A., Popper, P., & Chou, T. W. (2000). Some recent advances in the fabrication and design of three-dimensional textile preforms: a review. Composites science and technology, 60(1), 33-47. https://doi.org/10.1016/S0266-3538(99)00093-7 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/S0266-3538(99)00093-7
• Karunaratne, P.V.M., Jayalath, U.I., Bhagya, K.P.N. (2024). Heritage of Living Entity and Living Skills: Advancing Sustainability Goals 1 and 4 in Handloom Textiles. In: Ranathunga, G.M. (eds) Textiles of Sri Lanka. SDGs and Textiles. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-97-0569-6_3 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-97-0569-6_3
• Mamidipudi, A. (2019). Crafting innovation, weaving sustainability: Theorizing Indian handloom weaving as sociotechnology. Comparative Studies of South Asia, Africa and the Middle East, 39(2), 241-248. https://doi.org/10.1215/1089201X-7586764 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1215/1089201X-7586764
• Myrup Andreasen, M., Hansen, C. T., & Cash, P. (2015). Introduction: Conceptualization. In: Conceptual design: Interpretations, mindset and models. Cham, Switzerland: Springer International Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-19839-2_1 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-19839-2_1
• Nieveen, N. (1999). Prototyping to reach product quality. In: van den Akker, J., Branch, R.M., Gustafson, K., Nieveen, N., Plomp, T. (eds). Design approaches and tools in education and training, Springer, Dordrecht.. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-011-4255-7_10 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-94-011-4255-7_10
• Pereira Pessôa, M. V., & Jauregui Becker, J. M. (2020). Smart design engineering: a literature review of the impact of the 4th industrial revolution on product design and development. Research in Engineering Design, 31(2), 175-195. https://doi.org/10.1007/s00163-020-00330-z DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s00163-020-00330-z
• Piper, A. (2019). Material Relationships: The Textile and the Garment, the Maker and the Machine: Developing a Composite Pattern Weaving System. Nottingham Trent University (United Kingdom). https://irep.ntu.ac.uk/id/eprint/39927/
• Pons, D. (2008). Project management for new product development. Project Management Journal, 39(2), 82-97. https://doi.org/10.1002/pmj.20052 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1002/pmj.20052
• Purohit, S., & Gupta, S. (2023). Sustainable social enterprise built by empowering women artisans: A case of Gramshree, India. Asian Journal of Management Cases, 20(2), 157-173. https://doi.org/10.1177/09728201231180764 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/09728201231180764
• Tadesse, B. (2015). Socio-Economic Role of Clustering and Government Constructed Working Premises/Shed On ‘Traditional Handloom Weavers’. The Case of Gulele Sub Ciy Woreda One and Six (Doctoral dissertation, St. Mary's University. http://www.repository.smuc.edu.et/handle/123456789/1647
• Von Tresckow, S. (2017). Understanding the Countermarche Loom. Fond du Lac, WI: The Woolgatherers Ltd. Available at: https://woolgatherers.com/PHOTOS2017/Understanding%20Countermarche%20Looms.pdf (accessed December 27, 2024)
• Zhao, F. et al. (2016). Mechanism of Laoguanshan Pattern Looms from Late 2nd Century BCE, Chengdu, China. In: López-Cajún, C., Ceccarelli, M. (eds) Explorations in the History of Machines and Mechanisms. History of Mechanism and Machine Science, vol 32. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-31184-5_19 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-319-31184-5_19
Downloads
Published
Data Availability Statement
Data sharing is applicable to this article upon reasonable request from the corresponding author.Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2024 Author(s) retain the copyright of this article

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.
All works published in Fashion and Textiles Review are licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International License (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/).

