Towards sustainable denim: evaluating the dry process techniques in surface modification

Hasibul Hasan Shykat; Md. Riaz Hossain; Md. Alif Arafat Shohan; Bebe Fatema Bristy; Upama Nasrin Haq

doi:10.35738/ftr.v7.2025.56

Authors

Hasibul Hasan Shykat Author https://orcid.org/0009-0004-8568-7207 (unauthenticated)
Md. Riaz Hossain Author https://orcid.org/0009-0003-5178-9224 (unauthenticated)
Md. Alif Arafat Shohan Author https://orcid.org/0009-0004-7126-9688 (unauthenticated)
Bebe Fatema Bristy Author https://orcid.org/0009-0005-5552-5263 (unauthenticated)
Upama Nasrin Haq Author https://orcid.org/0000-0003-4114-8557 (unauthenticated)

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.35738/ftr.v7.2025.56

Keywords:

Denim, surface modification, dry process, sustainable wash, environmental impact

Abstract

Purpose: As an alternative to widely used denim wet washing techniques, which consume a huge amount of water and chemicals, dry washing techniques need attention. That is why this study sought to investigate and evaluate the sustainable surface modification techniques known as dry wash methods applied in industrial denim apparel washing.

Methodology/Design: A descriptive research design is followed to conduct the case studies by collecting primary data from three 100% export-oriented denim washing factories, exploring a detailed and accurate picture of the dry processes prevailing in the denim washing factories. The findings of the qualitative data of the study are reported descriptively with graphical illustration along with flow charts to convey the collected information for better understanding, along with the sustainability indicators, namely Water, chemical and energy consumption.

Findings: The study analyses water, chemicals, and energy as indicators of sustainable washing and finds zero water and chemical usage in the hand scrapping, tagging, grinding, whiskering, destroying, laser, and ozone fading, along with no or very little energy consumption in grinding (0.67%), laser (4.8%) and ozone fading (4.5%) procedures, validating environmental sustainability.

Practical and Social Implications: This paper contributes detailed information about sustainable surface modification on denim to the academic and professional literature, comprehending valuable contents like process techniques, tools, controlling points, and resource consumptions in the context of water, chemical, and energy consumption as well as help global manufacturers set benchmarks in adopting and modifying those manual processes to progress further in industrial apparel washing.

Originality: This paper provides practical field-level information on multiple dry process techniques used in denim surface modification, focusing on their sustainability in terms of water, chemical, and energy use. Case studies from three manufacturers enrich the literature with real-world manufacturing scenarios for dry wash surface modification techniques.

Author Biographies

Hasibul Hasan Shykat

Hasibul Hasan Shykat is a Fabric Technologist at Next Sourcing Bangladesh Ltd., specialising in textile performance, material innovation, and quality evaluation. He graduated from Bangladesh University of Textiles with a degree in Apparel Engineering, where he developed a strong foundation in fabric science and manufacturing technologies. His professional experience focuses on fabric development, testing methodologies, and ensuring compliance with international standards. He has a keen research interest in advanced textile materials, sustainable innovations, and functional fabric engineering. Through his work and academic pursuits, he aims to contribute to the evolving landscape of textile research and material science. His current work bridges industry practices with research-driven insights, supporting continuous improvement and innovation in textile engineering.
Md. Riaz Hossain

Md. Riaz Hossain is an active, emerging textile engineering researcher specialising in sustainability, sustainable materials, smart textiles, and Industrial advancements in textiles. Currently pursuing an MSc at Pamukkale University,Turkiye, his work focuses on developing sustainable bio-based smart textile systems. With academic publications and experience in laboratory settings, he combines interdisciplinary insight with practical application, contributing to the advancement of sustainable and intelligent textile systems.
Md. Alif Arafat Shohan

Md. Alif Arafat Shohan is a Merchandiser at Next Sourcing Bangladesh Ltd., with professional expertise in product development, sourcing strategy, and supply chain coordination within the apparel industry. He graduated from Bangladesh University of Textiles, where he built a strong foundation in garment manufacturing and textile processes. His work focuses on bridging design, production, and commercial requirements to ensure efficient and quality-driven outcomes. He has a growing interest in research related to sustainable sourcing, supply chain optimisation, and innovative apparel production techniques. Through his professional experience and academic engagement, he aspires to contribute to research that enhances efficiency, sustainability, and innovation in the global textile and apparel sector.
Bebe Fatema Bristy

Bebe Fatema Bristy completed her B.Sc. in Textile Engineering from Bangladesh University of Textiles, Department of Apparel Engineering, with academic excellence that earned her the Dean’s Award and a nomination for the Prime Minister Gold Medal. She began her career as a Lecturer at the University of Scholars and currently serves at the BGMEA University of Fashion & Technology. Her research focuses on smart textiles, nanotechnology, graphene-based wearable sensors, and sustainable apparel systems. Her ongoing work includes superhydrophobic textile surfaces, multifunctional protective clothing, and renewable hydrogen production from textile wastewater. She aspires to advance research in innovative and sustainable textile materials.
Upama Nasrin Haq

Upama Nasrin Haq is a dynamic and forward-thinking researcher with a strong commitment to sustainability and circularity in the textile industry. With a solid academic foundation and hands-on experience in both research and education spanning around a decade, she has contributed to multiple circular economy and textile sustainability research projects and published scholarly research works. She strives for sustainability and circularity in the textile industry, with a focus on practical applications, aiming to facilitate sustainable transformation in global textile systems. Ms Upama is currently pursuing her PhD in Sustainable Textile Recycling at the Nottingham School of Art and Design, Nottingham, United Kingdom, where her research focuses on advancing synthetic textile sustainability through bio-recycling.

References

• Agarwal, S. (2009, October 22). Denim Dry Processing For Creating Vintage Jeans, Denimandjeans, Available at: https://www.denimsandjeans.com/denim/manufacturing-process/denim-dry-processing-for-creating-vintage-jeans/951

• Ahmed, M., Ahmed, M. P., & Hassan, M. (2021). An explanation of bleach wash on denim cotton fabrics. Journal of Textile Engineering & Fashion Technology, 7, 87-90. DOI: https://doi.org/10.15406/jteft.2021.07.00272

• Choudhury, A. K. R. (2017). Environmental impacts of denim washing. In: Muthu, S. S. (ed.) Sustainability in Denim. Woodhead Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102043-2.00003-4 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102043-2.00003-4

• Colomera, A., & Kuilderd, H. (2015). Biotechnological washing of denim jeans. In Denim: Manufacture, Finishing and Applications. Elsevier Ltd. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-85709-843-6.00012-3 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-85709-843-6.00012-3

• Ibrahim, N. A., Eid, B. M., Abdel Aziz, M. S., Hamdy, S. M., & Abd Allah, S. E. (2018). Green surface modification and nano-multifunctionalization of denim fabric. Cellulose, 25(10), 6207–6220. https://doi.org/10.1007/s10570-018-1985-y DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/s10570-018-1985-y

• İvedi, İ., Yağcı, K., & Tağaç, E. (2021). Development Of Ecological Denim Bleaching Methods. In International Conference on Textile and Connected R&D Domains (TEXTEHX) (pp. 81-87). DOI: https://doi.org/10.35530/TT.202.07

• Jeanologia G2 Ozone Technology. (2023). In https://www.jeanologia.com/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/G2%20OZONE%20LINEUP%20ENGLISH.pdf

• Khalil, E. (2015). Sustainable and Ecological Finishing Technology for Denim Jeans. AASCIT Communications, 2(5), 159-163.

• Khan, M. K. R., & Jintun, S. (2021). Sustainability issues of various denim washing methods. Textile and Leather Review, 4(2), 96–110. https://doi.org/10.31881/TLR.2021.01 DOI: https://doi.org/10.31881/TLR.2021.01

• Nahid-Ull-Islam, M., Hasan, S. M. M., Chowdhury, M. K. H., Sakib, S. I., Ahamed, S., Sayeed, M. A., & Akter, M. (2024). Sustainable Approaches of Ozone Wash and Laser Fading Over Conventional Denim Wash. Tekstilec, 67(2), 1-15. DOI: https://doi.org/10.14502/tekstilec.67.2024011

• Nayak, R., George, M., Jajpura, L., Khandual, A., & Panwar, T. (2022). Laser and ozone applications for circularity journey in denim manufacturing - A developing country perspective. Current Opinion in Green and Sustainable Chemistry, 38, 100680. https://doi.org/10.1016/J.COGSC.2022.100680 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.cogsc.2022.100680

• Olafsson, S., Cook, D., Davidsdottir, B., & Johannsdottir, L. (2014). Measuring countries׳ environmental sustainability performance–A review and case study of Iceland. Renewable and Sustainable Energy Reviews, 39, 934-948. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.rser.2014.07.101 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.rser.2014.07.101

• Paul, R. (2015). Denim and jeans: An overview. In Denim: Manufacture, Finishing and Applications. Elsevier Ltd. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-85709-843-6.00001-9 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-85709-843-6.00001-9

• Samanta, K. K., Basak, S., & Chattopadhyay, S. K. (2017). Environmentally friendly denim processing using water-free technologies. In: Muthu, S. S. (ed.) Sustainability in Denim. Woodhead Publishing. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102043-2.00012-5 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-08-102043-2.00012-5

• Schrott, W., & Paul, R. (2015). Environmental impacts of denim manufacture. In Denim: Manufacture, Finishing and Applications. Elsevier Ltd. https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-85709-843-6.00020-2 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1016/B978-0-85709-843-6.00020-2

• Senthil Kumar, P., Yaashikaa, P. R., & Femina Carolin, C. (2021). Sustainability in Textile Design. In: Muthu, S.S., Angel Gardetti, M. (eds) Sustainable Design in Textiles and Fashion. Sustainable Textiles: Production, Processing, Manufacturing & Chemistry. Springer, Singapore. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-16-2466-7_3 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-981-16-2466-7_3

• Siddiquee, M. A. B., Moula, A. G., Saha, J. K., Khan, M. H. K., Kaisar, Z., & Roy, A. (2022). Sustainable Denim Washing by Process Optimization. Journal of Textile Science and Technology, 8(4), 149-162. DOI: https://doi.org/10.4236/jtst.2022.84012

• Sakib, N. (2023). Water & chemical consumption in the textile processing industry of Bangladesh and environmental challenges. Textile Today, Available at: https://www.textiletoday.com.bd/water-chemical-consumption-in-the-textile-processing-industry-of-bangladesh-and-environmental-challenges

• Tarhan, M., & Sarıışık, M. (2009). A Comparison Among Performance Characteristics of Various Denim Fading Processes. Textile Research Journal, 79(4), 301–309. https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517508090889 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1177/0040517508090889

• Unal, F., Yavas, A., Avinc, O. (2020). Sustainability in Textile Design with Laser Technology. In: Muthu, S., Gardetti, M. (eds) Sustainability in the Textile and Apparel Industries. Sustainable Textiles: Production, Processing, Manufacturing & Chemistry. Springer, Cham. https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-37929-2_11 DOI: https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-37929-2_11

• Haq, U. N., & Khan, M. M. R. (2014). Technology of acid wash on woven denim apparel with damp pumice stone. International Journal of Science, Environment and Technology, 3(6), 2090–2095

• Haq, U. N., Khan, M. M. R., & Khan, M. M. R. (2015). Investigation of the bulk, surface and transfer properties of chlorine bleached denim apparel at different condition. European Scientific Journal, 11(12), 213-226.

• Zayedul Hasan, Md., Tareque Rahaman, Md., Islam, T., & Dhar Pranta, A. (2021). An Empirical Analysis of Sustainable Denim Washing Technology in the Apparel Industries. International Journal of Industrial and Manufacturing Systems Engineering, 6(2), 20. https://doi.org/10.11648/j.ijimse.20210602.11 DOI: https://doi.org/10.11648/j.ijimse.20210602.11