1 | INTRODUCTION

Quality refers to the standard by which garments are evaluated based on factors such as durability, fabric, and design. A garment’s quality often determines whether consumers keep or dispose of it, with poor-quality items leading to early disposal (Degenstein et al., 2020). Thus, fashion designers must apply their skills in garment quality assessment to produce sustainable clothing. According to Amankwa et al. (2015), skills are the ability to perform tasks expertly and systematically, which is critical in ensuring the longevity and sustainability of clothing. Quality control in garment manufacturing is vital for producing high-quality products, which influence the durability and overall sustainability of the final product (Rahman, 2009). However, some researchers argue that current trends in fashion place little emphasis on garment quality (Connor-Crabb & Rigby, 2019). Sustainable fashion, which prioritises reducing the environmental, social, and economic costs of clothing production, is central to the sustainability movement in the fashion industry (Ertekin & Atik, 2014). Consumers’ knowledge of the effect of waste on the environment is influencing their decisions towards sustainable fashion (Schiaroli et al., 2024). Mandarić et al. (2022) identify that the sustainability of clothing concerning a particular brand is key in influencing their decision to buy a particular clothing. According to Zhang et al. (2021), consumers' knowledge of the sustainability of a particular clothing contributes decision to buy the clothing. Consumer awareness of the quality of clothing contributes to influencing the patronage of clothing and has the potential to make clothing sustainable (Ng, 2020). Bonelli et al. (2024) opine that the global discussion on fashion and innovation is directed towards achieving sustainable fashion.

Yet, there is limited research on how fashion graduates apply their training in garment quality assessment to meet the demands of sustainability in the global fashion market. Challenges faced with garment quality assessment have been attributed to the assessment of technology and equipment. The influence of fashion education curricula on garment quality assessment by graduate fashion students has not been extensively studied. An examination of how fashion education curricula impact graduate fashion students’ ability to assess garment quality would provide information on aspects of fashion education curricula that need attention to improve garment quality assessment. This study, therefore, examines how the quality assessment knowledge gained by graduates of Accra Technical University contributes to sustainable fashion practices. The study was restricted to some aspects of garment quality taught to students at Accra Technical University. Responses from the study were limited to graduate students who completed between the years 2015-2020.

Using data from several research initiatives commissioned by WRAP and Defra, Cooper and Claxton (2022) report on a survey that found various types of garment failure by evaluating discarded items at the end of their life, discussing the causes of such failure, and suggesting potential remedies. According to the poll, colour fading and pilling are the most frequent reasons why clothing fails. Fabric deterioration, unintentional damage, loss of dimensional stability, logo failure, discolouration, and seam holes were further causes. Following technical guidelines for best practices can increase the longevity of clothing, but it also necessitates efficient management of the production and product development processes. Appropriate testing, enhanced technical expertise, cooperation to advance better design practices, and new business models that support garment longevity are all necessary for the implementation of technical solutions (Cooper & Claxton, 2022).

1.1.2 |    Fabric Production Quality Assesment

The preproduction quality control process involves testing the fabric, accessories, closures, interlinings, sewing threads, and other design aspects before manufacturing the garment (Nayak & Padhye, 2010). As explained, fabric can also be evaluated for comfort, colourfastness, and durability (Nayak & Padhye, 2014).

1.1.3 |    Factors Influencing Fashion Work Output

Technology factors: Technological developments in the fashion industry have always had an impact on how clothing is made, supplied, and delivered to customers. The growth of the Internet and improvements in communication technologies have enabled businesses to respond more quickly to the latest market impulses by enabling and speeding up the flow of information from new trends and brands from the customer to the merchant. Customers now have higher expectations as a result of these advancements since they are aware of the latest fashion trends, thanks to the media (Rinnebach & Richter, 2014).

Environmental Factors: Unpredictable occurrences such as floods, tsunamis, and droughts can hinder the maintenance of industrial infrastructure and the growth of cotton. Since a lot of stores shifted their manufacturing to "developing" countries in Asia (Joy et al., 2012). The fast and slow fashion trends that are currently ruling the fashion industry are examined by Chavan (2018). Of the two, the fast fashion model is the most well-known, but the slow fashion model is becoming more and more well-liked because it discourages the excessive and unnecessary use of clothing, which leads to problems with recycling and environmental hazards. To accomplish the ultimate goal of creating lucrative client relationships, he also looks at the internal and external factors that affect the business climate of the fashion sector, as well as methods for overcoming them (Chavan, 2018).

Technical skills: Arasinah et al. (2014) examine the technical knowledge, abilities, and anticipated changes in the garment business over the next ten years. According to the findings of the interviews, drawing, designing, sewing skills, and computer proficiency are the technical skills that employers most value. They discovered that understanding current trends, fashion, and company strategy is knowledge of the desirable competency. The technical skills of the students studying Industrial Clothing Production in vocational high school are attempted to be illustrated by Aisyah et al. (2018). According to their study's findings, students' technical proficiency in nine areas—such as pattern/maker knowledge, cutting, sewing/knitting, finishing, pressing, quality control, packing, and deliveries—indicates that they are generally proficient in the process of creating in the fashion industry.

1.1.4 |    Finishing and Clothing Output

Sharma (2019) investigated the relationship between finishing (colourfulness, brightness, and sharpness) and how people perceive quality. Thirty people were enlisted for a psychophysical experiment, and a Likert scale was created. Participants were asked to score four fabrics according to the six aspects of image quality on a test form printed on four distinct textures and sheen combinations of fabric. The data was statistically examined, and the results show that consumers prefer fabrics with low texture and sheen and that image sharpness is the best image feature. The study also suggested that picture quality is subjective and observer-dependent and that the structural characteristics of fabrics or substrates may affect how well an image is viewed (Sharma, 2019).

Cooper and Claxton (2022) look at the level of information about garment failure that would be needed by businesses and policymakers who support longer garment lives. According to the data, the most common causes of clothing failure are colour fading and pilling. Failure of the logo, discolouration, collapse of the cloth, accidental damage, loss of dimensional stability, and seam gaps were further issues. Following technical best practice guidelines can result in more durable clothing, but doing so requires effective process management both throughout the product development and manufacturing stages. Implementing technical solutions calls for sufficient testing, improved technical know-how, cooperation to promote better design principles, and new business models that promote the longevity of clothing (Cooper & Claxton, 2022). Chowdhury (2018) looked at the effects of unique finishings on 100% cotton woven and knit fabrics. Different physical test outcomes demonstrated that both woven and knit materials are strongly influenced by various special finishes. This study was primarily concerned with the functional characteristics of cotton knit and woven fabrics. These characteristics were affected by chemical treatments, including paper touch, polyethene, polyurethane, wrinkle-free, anti-static, water-repellent, soft, and silky-soft finishes. Based on various finishes, there was no appreciable variation in GSM (grams per square metre).

1.2 |    Conceptual Framework

The conceptual framework looks at all factors that contribute to the learning process in garment quality assessment at ATU, as shown in Figure 1. The conceptual framework sees the quality of lecturers, curriculum used, facilities at the ATU, and the behaviour of the fashion graduates from ATU to affect the quality of garment production education at ATU. The Quality Garment Production Education at ATU is seen to influence professional fashion designers from ATU. The professional fashion designer from ATU is seen to be affected by economic factors such as their access to capital and environmental factors such as the place in which they find their business located. The professional fashion designer from ATU also affects their pre-production, production and post-production quality assessment. The pre-production, production and post-production quality assessment also contributes to their business and environmental sustainability.

Figure 1. Conceptual Framework Researcher’s Construct.

2   |    METHODOLOGY

2.1 |    Research Design

This study used a positivist research paradigm, employing a quantitative research approach to examine the ability of Accra Technical University (ATU) fashion graduates to assess garment quality and its implications for sustainability. The study targeted fashion graduates from ATU who completed their program between 2015 and 2020. A field survey was conducted using questionnaires to gather data on their ability to evaluate garment quality, how this influenced their work, and how their knowledge contributed to sustainable fashion practices. Graduates' contact information was obtained from the Department of Academic Affairs. Those within the Greater Accra region who indicated their availability were selected for the study. A structured questionnaire was used to collect background information and assess the graduates' knowledge of garment quality assessment, including parameters such as fabric construction, fit, design, and overall aesthetic.

2.2 |    Population of the Study

The population for the study included all fashion graduates from Accra Technical University who completed the program between 2015 and 2020. The total number of graduates was 1,437.

2.3 |    Sampling Technique(s)/Size

Purposive sampling was used to select the fashion department graduates from ATU. Students were selected from ATU because that is one of the public institutions with the highest number of fashion students in the country. Accra also has several fashion designers compared to other parts of the country. Graduates were then grouped by year of completion and degree obtained using stratified sampling. From these strata, simple random sampling was used to select 210 respondents. The sample size was determined using a modification of Cochran’s formula to ensure statistical representativeness.

Table 1. Sample distribution for those who have completed the Accra Technical University from 2015-2020.

2.4 |    Data collection instrument and procedure

A structured questionnaire was used to obtain relevant information from the respondents. The questionnaire had questions which captured the biodata of the respondents. The questionnaire also captured information on the training received by the students and how this knowledge had impacted their ability to assess the quality of garments. The questionnaire had a Likert scale of 5 to 1 where 1= Does not apply, 2= Not important, 3= Somehow important, 4= Very important, 5= extremely important which tested their knowledge of quality parameters critical in pre-production, production and post-production of garments. The questionnaire was developed into a Google form and shared via WhatsApp with each respondent.

2.5 |    Validity and reliability

The questionnaire was taken through a process where experts were consulted on the validity of the scales used and where some questions and scales were seen to be inadequate, a review of such questions and scales was done until the final questionnaire was developed. The method adopted was compared with other established methods, data sources and theories to obtain an adequate understanding research procedure. The questionnaire was also pretested before it was used.

2.6 |    Data Analysis

Descriptive statistics, including frequency distributions, percentages, and measures of central tendency (mean, median), were calculated using SPSS version 20. The results were visualized through bar charts and graphs to enhance clarity.

2.7 |    Ethical Considerations and Approval

Ethical approval was obtained from the Ethical Board of Accra Technical University before the study commenced. All participants were assured of confidentiality and anonymity. Informed consent was obtained from all participants before data collection, and ethical processes were strictly followed throughout the study.